Sunday, November 19, 2006

Theatrics at the Pakistan-India border


On the way to Amritsar in the state of Punjab (primarily Sikh area), I witnessed a very strange display of patriotism at the Pakistan-India border. Every night, thousands gather in grandstands to see the "closing of the borders". From the India side, I could see and hear the Pakistanis yelling their specific cheers, while the Indians tried to "out-shout" them on the other side. It was like being at a football game.

The ceremony is very theatrical! Military soldiers dressed in traditional uniforms stomp up the road towards the border and show as much attitude as possible implying national superiority. At the border gate the soldiers yell, scowl, pump up their chests and clench fists to intimidate the other country. Bugles blow and flags are lowered and marched back to guardrooms after the gates are slammed shut. It was a truly entertaining 20 minute show!